Kauai to Alaska

Like the waves, a life in motion has brought me harmony and chaos; embracing this existence, I find myself in Alaska.

My adventures in Kauai were as follows:

            I left Laura Love’s/Vin’s place in search of the sacred springs of Polihale. Like most island transit, Kauai’s is quite slow going through towns due to congestion. Carrying heavy bags, equipped for both Hawaii and Alaska, I made it half way to the end of the road and decided to camp at the “Salt Pond” beach. In the small town of Hanapepe, I discovered an innovative organic market selling homemade concoctions and raw goodies of all sorts. Coconut water elixir of life, infused with supergreens and exotic berries filled my being with a renewed sense of vitality. I found myself playing my Ukulele into the sunset watching groups of people gather around fires and meals.

Early the next morning I made my way to Polihale, a 17+ mile white sand beach. The trek/hitchhiking experience was rough due to rain and long stretches of highway. I made it to the epic cliffs of Polihale; quickly setting up camp, I made for the rocks hoping to find the sacred springs that the Hawaiians believed was the exit for spirits. Mingling with mountain goats, baking in the hot sun, and dodging waves, I was unsuccessful in finding the springs. Disappointed, I searched for locals inquiring where this spiritual opening was located. Bewildered, most people believed it to be dried up or did not know what I was talking about. Plopping down on the sand, practicing Asana as the sun set, I found peace with myself. As the stars began to pop from the black night sky, I watched a UFO blast from the horizon, light up the night sky and then disappear. Excited and hopeful, I called out to my celestial family. Another blast, lighting up the sky and zigzagging in patterns I have never seen a normal plane move. It did not take me a minute longer to realize that the Naval base was at the end of the beach. Were we bombing Russia? Or were we just blasting missiles into the ocean? A pity, I will never know.

After enjoying a wasabi sauce dripping, ahi tuna taco, I hitched up to Koke’e state park. The wind tore through my hair as I passed by the magnificent Waimea canyon. The Grand Canyon the Hawaii earns its status and popularity with ease; massive red rock dug deep into the earth, creating an endless play of topographical magic in valleys and on mountaintops. My new Hawaiian friend, equipped with a rack of 8 GoPros, made sure to slow down at the best lookouts, give his girlfriend and me an opportunity to oogle with the tourists. He brought me to the state park, instructed me not to pay anyone, and to set up shop in the woods. I followed his instruction and continued to allow Mother Kauai to provide. As the stars began to burst from the darkness of the sky, I heard a Native American flute break the silence of the night, inviting my Ukulele to sing and join the sound in a harmonious dance in the crisp, clear night.

I woke at 5 am and began a 20+ mile day of exploration through the park. I skipped along the Nu’Alolo trail as the sun rose, warming my bones and revealing the splendor of the valleys that surrounded me. As I approached the ocean, the thought of Alaska moved into consciousness; leading me to a small patch of sunburst orange Amanita Muscaria mushrooms. Super excited, I picked 2 of these friendly funguses, and continued my trek (eventually preserving them in honey). Snacking on wild berries, coconut oil and wild nerstircium I twirled through forests of Redwood, Koa, and Eucalyptus trees. Bamboo forests to climb, gnarled branches to dodge, the forest is full of obstacles to keep one excited and the mind busy. My ears were filled with the sounds of sweet songbirds and my nose enjoying the blossoming of flowers. I love this place!

That evening I met an old time brother, the infamous flute player, named Wylatt. He informed me of the proliferation of GMO crops on Kauai. The Garden Island is being pirated by Monsanto and other massive organizations that work only for their own profit while disrespecting the land and the people who live on it. These companies are growing soybean seeds and other garbage to send over seas. They bought tons of waterfront property, rerouted spring water to give life to their GMO plants, and are dumping a heinous amount of chemicals on the land. As a result, many people of Kauai rely on food stamps to cover the cost to buy bottled water, fruits and veggies that are imported from Mexico, etc., the waterfalls are drying up, and the ocean is polluted: resulting in sick children.  This island has potential to be a Garden of Eden; growing all sorts of medicinal plants, fruits, and vegetables. The water is pure and rich in iron. Perhaps the humans that have created this system do not know any better, so we must forgive them; but that does not mean we need to let it continue. Awareness needs to be raised and our sacred lands need to be saved before we dry them up.

Leaving Polihale, I met two joyous females that invited me to stay at their place in Po’ipu, the sunny side of the island.  Wylatt escorted me to their home and I was greeted with open arms. Three wonderful women in their forties sharing a home and celebrating life for all it is worth, just the place for me! I spent the mornings teaching them Kundalini and Acro yoga, drinking coffee, and basking in the hot sun. During the afternoons I snorkeled, played music, explored the beaches, and danced. This period of time was truly effortless and extremely enjoyable. The ladies offered to drive me up to the North shore for my adventure into Kalalau Valley. I was given the island tour on the way up; a highlight was seeing Hanalei Bay, where Puff the Magic dragon came to life! Sunset at the end of the road led into an epic night of Sushi and celebration before my trek out to the valley.

The 11 mile Napali coast trail is no joke. My pack was extremely heavy (carrying almost a gallon of coconut oil and all my gear), but I was prepared with trekking poles and callused feet. Getting a late start, my arrival into the valley was later than expected. I met a half toothless man nicknamed Grizz and another dude who specialized in making Lilikoi moonshine upon arrival. They pointed me to the “Goddess Garden” to set up camp. Full of Aloe plants, oregano, and other delicious treats, the garden was the perfect place for me to nest for the first couple of nights.

Feeling the need to connect with Mother Earth, I ventured deep into the heart of the valley. I set up camp next to a spring fed gushing waterfall that poured into “The Outlaw Pools,” glorious bathing pools lined with wild mint, guava trees, exotic flowers, and Java Plums. On my adventures I met many of the old timers and experienced ones: Starman, Dolphin, Brooks, Shakina, & Tague(to name a few). They showed me to the gardens, pointed out orange trees, and invited me to create music and feasts with them. Mornings were spent stoking a small fire to heat water for lemongrass/mint tea, bathing in the springs, skipping to the mango tree 50 feet from my camp and feasting on fallen mangos. Many afternoons were spent exploring the crevices of the valley, stumbling upon gardens filled with luscious greens (kale, mustard greens, etc) left by others, picking oranges/guava/lilikoi, and climbing the Ulu tree to harvest breadfruit. Other days I would relax on the beach, strumming my ukulele and exchanging philosophy with other beach dwellers. Most sunsets were spent on the Heiau (sacred space) drumming, dancing, and chanting to the whales, moon, stars, and the abundance of the earth. Life was filled with bliss, peace, and serenity.

            As the days approached my departure from the valley, she would not let me go. I tried to leave one morning, and a huge storm came in. On that day, a woman died on the trail into Kalalau. The following day, I woke up at 4 am, and ventured out into the middle of the valley. A phenomenon known as the “Night Rainbow” occurs in this valley. The Kahunas said that if you saw a silver night rainbow, it was a blessing of the ancestors. As the moon was becoming full, the possibility for seeing a night rainbow was alive. I sat upon “Space Rock,” stared deep in the valley, and sure enough, a bright silver rainbow glowed over the valley. A great omen. The morning was bright with sun, and I quickly packed up my tent and gear. I made the hike out of the valley and to the “community kitchen.” Most mornings large groups of people meet to drink coffee and share their supplies for breakfast.  I was disappointed to see no one at the kitchen this morning. Odd. I scratched my head, paced around, and caught a glimpse of a newcomer rolling a cigarette. He pointed to the Heiau, instructing me to go and join the ceremony. Breaking into a slight jog, I saw all my valley friends dancing, singing, playing music with bright eyes and smiles in the sunshine. It was the most gorgeous day I had seen in the valley yet. Tague, a righteous brother, had brought out a large bag of fungus from Oregon that he had been saving. Everyone had just eaten handfuls of this magical plant and were preparing for a day of bliss and ceremony. I could not leave the valley on this beautiful day; so, I hustled back to my bags, set up my tent in a new space and made my way back to the Heiau.

            This single day was the most magical day of my life. Rainbows were with us on the horizon all day, sun shined, flutes/ukuleles/drums played, whales breached, waves crashed, surfers caught waves, dancing and moving in cosmic unison, fires created, and the depths of meditation reached. I remembered the divinity that lies within all of us on this day; our connection as one united heart and breath was apparent. In meditation, I recognized that everything that is happening on the outside is just our perception, a simple reflection.

            It was an epic way to leave the valley. My hike back was filled with reflection of the insights the valley shared with me. I spent a few days camping on beaches, exploring the North shore and the small villages along the way. Most of my time was spent hustling, as I never knew where I was going to sleep or get food next. Hitchhiking and going with the flow had become my everyday life. I had a few gashes on my feet from climbing trees and hiking barefoot that were getting infected with staff that lived in the soil. I did not notice it until my feet were swollen, becoming numb, and a small red line started to run up my ankle. I have heard stories of people losing limbs because of staff; I am way to aware and educated to let this happen to me. I stayed at a friend’s farm, boiled water and scrubbed my wounds. The pus lessened, but the infection was still there.

 Stopping at a store for chocolate and a papaya, I me a silver haired woman who was determined to introduce me to her younger friend; according to her, we would really get along. She was so determined, that she invited me into her home to stay. Graciously, I accepted. It was the first hot shower I had in a long time. The first evening I cooked for her and her granddaughter, organized their kitchen, and cleaned up after the meal. Thrilled, they invited me to stay as long as I would like. It was perfect for me, as my body needed a place for rest, relaxation and healing. I needed to rebuild before my journey to Alaska.

Sheila is incredibly open, honest, and generous. She lent me a bike to explore the hidden beaches, did my laundry, shared her VitaMix and many superfoods, and brought me on adventures with her granddaughter. Her friend and I never shared a spark, but Sheila and I formed a wonderful friendship. We discussed spirituality to the late hours of the night, visited the Hindu temple for puja, and ate all sorts of healthy, Hawaiian fresh food. I stayed with Sheila for a whole week, until the day I left Hawaii.