Like the waves, a life in motion has brought me harmony and
chaos; embracing this existence, I find myself in Alaska.
My adventures in Kauai were as follows:
I left
Laura Love’s/Vin’s place in search of the sacred springs of Polihale. Like most
island transit, Kauai’s is quite slow going through towns due to congestion.
Carrying heavy bags, equipped for both Hawaii and Alaska, I made it half way to
the end of the road and decided to camp at the “Salt Pond” beach. In the small
town of Hanapepe, I discovered an innovative organic market selling homemade
concoctions and raw goodies of all sorts. Coconut water elixir of life, infused
with supergreens and exotic berries filled my being with a renewed sense of
vitality. I found myself playing my Ukulele into the sunset watching groups of
people gather around fires and meals.
Early the next morning I made my
way to Polihale, a 17+ mile white sand beach. The trek/hitchhiking experience
was rough due to rain and long stretches of highway. I made it to the epic
cliffs of Polihale; quickly setting up camp, I made for the rocks hoping to
find the sacred springs that the Hawaiians believed was the exit for spirits.
Mingling with mountain goats, baking in the hot sun, and dodging waves, I was
unsuccessful in finding the springs. Disappointed, I searched for locals
inquiring where this spiritual opening was located. Bewildered, most people
believed it to be dried up or did not know what I was talking about. Plopping
down on the sand, practicing Asana as the sun set, I found peace with myself.
As the stars began to pop from the black night sky, I watched a UFO blast from
the horizon, light up the night sky and then disappear. Excited and hopeful, I
called out to my celestial family. Another blast, lighting up the sky and
zigzagging in patterns I have never seen a normal plane move. It did not take
me a minute longer to realize that the Naval base was at the end of the beach.
Were we bombing Russia? Or were we just blasting missiles into the ocean? A pity,
I will never know.
After enjoying a wasabi sauce
dripping, ahi tuna taco, I hitched up to Koke’e state park. The wind tore
through my hair as I passed by the magnificent Waimea canyon. The Grand Canyon
the Hawaii earns its status and popularity with ease; massive red rock dug deep
into the earth, creating an endless play of topographical magic in valleys and
on mountaintops. My new Hawaiian friend, equipped with a rack of 8 GoPros, made
sure to slow down at the best lookouts, give his girlfriend and me an opportunity
to oogle with the tourists. He brought me to the state park, instructed me not
to pay anyone, and to set up shop in the woods. I followed his instruction and
continued to allow Mother Kauai to provide. As the stars began to burst from
the darkness of the sky, I heard a Native American flute break the silence of
the night, inviting my Ukulele to sing and join the sound in a harmonious dance
in the crisp, clear night.
I woke at 5 am and began a 20+ mile
day of exploration through the park. I skipped along the Nu’Alolo trail as the
sun rose, warming my bones and revealing the splendor of the valleys that
surrounded me. As I approached the ocean, the thought of Alaska moved into
consciousness; leading me to a small patch of sunburst orange Amanita Muscaria
mushrooms. Super excited, I picked 2 of these friendly funguses, and continued
my trek (eventually preserving them in honey). Snacking on wild berries,
coconut oil and wild nerstircium I twirled through forests of Redwood, Koa, and
Eucalyptus trees. Bamboo forests to climb, gnarled branches to dodge, the
forest is full of obstacles to keep one excited and the mind busy. My ears were
filled with the sounds of sweet songbirds and my nose enjoying the blossoming
of flowers. I love this place!
That evening I met an old time
brother, the infamous flute player, named Wylatt. He informed me of the
proliferation of GMO crops on Kauai. The Garden Island is being pirated by
Monsanto and other massive organizations that work only for their own profit
while disrespecting the land and the people who live on it. These companies are
growing soybean seeds and other garbage to send over seas. They bought tons of
waterfront property, rerouted spring water to give life to their GMO plants,
and are dumping a heinous amount of chemicals on the land. As a result, many
people of Kauai rely on food stamps to cover the cost to buy bottled water,
fruits and veggies that are imported from Mexico, etc., the waterfalls are
drying up, and the ocean is polluted: resulting in sick children. This island has potential to be a Garden of
Eden; growing all sorts of medicinal plants, fruits, and vegetables. The water
is pure and rich in iron. Perhaps the humans that have created this system do
not know any better, so we must forgive them; but that does not mean we need to
let it continue. Awareness needs to be raised and our sacred lands need to be
saved before we dry them up.
Leaving Polihale, I met two joyous
females that invited me to stay at their place in Po’ipu, the sunny side of the
island. Wylatt escorted me to their home
and I was greeted with open arms. Three wonderful women in their forties
sharing a home and celebrating life for all it is worth, just the place for me!
I spent the mornings teaching them Kundalini and Acro yoga, drinking coffee,
and basking in the hot sun. During the afternoons I snorkeled, played music,
explored the beaches, and danced. This period of time was truly effortless and
extremely enjoyable. The ladies offered to drive me up to the North shore for
my adventure into Kalalau Valley. I was given the island tour on the way up; a
highlight was seeing Hanalei Bay, where Puff the Magic dragon came to life!
Sunset at the end of the road led into an epic night of Sushi and celebration
before my trek out to the valley.
The 11 mile Napali coast trail is
no joke. My pack was extremely heavy (carrying almost a gallon of coconut oil
and all my gear), but I was prepared with trekking poles and callused feet.
Getting a late start, my arrival into the valley was later than expected. I met
a half toothless man nicknamed Grizz and another dude who specialized in making
Lilikoi moonshine upon arrival. They pointed me to the “Goddess Garden” to set
up camp. Full of Aloe plants, oregano, and other delicious treats, the garden was
the perfect place for me to nest for the first couple of nights.
Feeling the need to connect with
Mother Earth, I ventured deep into the heart of the valley. I set up camp next
to a spring fed gushing waterfall that poured into “The Outlaw Pools,” glorious
bathing pools lined with wild mint, guava trees, exotic flowers, and Java
Plums. On my adventures I met many of the old timers and experienced ones:
Starman, Dolphin, Brooks, Shakina, & Tague(to name a few). They showed me
to the gardens, pointed out orange trees, and invited me to create music and
feasts with them. Mornings were spent stoking a small fire to heat water for
lemongrass/mint tea, bathing in the springs, skipping to the mango tree 50 feet
from my camp and feasting on fallen mangos. Many afternoons were spent
exploring the crevices of the valley, stumbling upon gardens filled with
luscious greens (kale, mustard greens, etc) left by others, picking
oranges/guava/lilikoi, and climbing the Ulu tree to harvest breadfruit. Other
days I would relax on the beach, strumming my ukulele and exchanging philosophy
with other beach dwellers. Most sunsets were spent on the Heiau (sacred space)
drumming, dancing, and chanting to the whales, moon, stars, and the abundance
of the earth. Life was filled with bliss, peace, and serenity.
As the days
approached my departure from the valley, she would not let me go. I tried to
leave one morning, and a huge storm came in. On that day, a woman died on the
trail into Kalalau. The following day, I woke up at 4 am, and ventured out into
the middle of the valley. A phenomenon known as the “Night Rainbow” occurs in
this valley. The Kahunas said that if you saw a silver night rainbow, it was a
blessing of the ancestors. As the moon was becoming full, the possibility for seeing
a night rainbow was alive. I sat upon “Space Rock,” stared deep in the valley,
and sure enough, a bright silver rainbow glowed over the valley. A great omen.
The morning was bright with sun, and I quickly packed up my tent and gear. I
made the hike out of the valley and to the “community kitchen.” Most mornings
large groups of people meet to drink coffee and share their supplies for
breakfast. I was disappointed to see no
one at the kitchen this morning. Odd. I scratched my head, paced around, and
caught a glimpse of a newcomer rolling a cigarette. He pointed to the Heiau,
instructing me to go and join the ceremony. Breaking into a slight jog, I saw
all my valley friends dancing, singing, playing music with bright eyes and
smiles in the sunshine. It was the most gorgeous day I had seen in the valley
yet. Tague, a righteous brother, had brought out a large bag of fungus from
Oregon that he had been saving. Everyone had just eaten handfuls of this
magical plant and were preparing for a day of bliss and ceremony. I could not
leave the valley on this beautiful day; so, I hustled back to my bags, set up
my tent in a new space and made my way back to the Heiau.
This single
day was the most magical day of my life. Rainbows were with us on the horizon
all day, sun shined, flutes/ukuleles/drums played, whales breached, waves
crashed, surfers caught waves, dancing and moving in cosmic unison, fires
created, and the depths of meditation reached. I remembered the divinity that
lies within all of us on this day; our connection as one united heart and
breath was apparent. In meditation, I recognized that everything that is
happening on the outside is just our perception, a simple reflection.
It was an
epic way to leave the valley. My hike back was filled with reflection of the
insights the valley shared with me. I spent a few days camping on beaches,
exploring the North shore and the small villages along the way. Most of my time
was spent hustling, as I never knew where I was going to sleep or get food
next. Hitchhiking and going with the flow had become my everyday life. I had a
few gashes on my feet from climbing trees and hiking barefoot that were getting
infected with staff that lived in the soil. I did not notice it until my feet
were swollen, becoming numb, and a small red line started to run up my ankle. I
have heard stories of people losing limbs because of staff; I am way to aware
and educated to let this happen to me. I stayed at a friend’s farm, boiled
water and scrubbed my wounds. The pus lessened, but the infection was still
there.
Stopping at a store for chocolate and a
papaya, I me a silver haired woman who was determined to introduce me to her
younger friend; according to her, we would really get along. She was so
determined, that she invited me into her home to stay. Graciously, I accepted. It
was the first hot shower I had in a long time. The first evening I cooked for
her and her granddaughter, organized their kitchen, and cleaned up after the
meal. Thrilled, they invited me to stay as long as I would like. It was perfect
for me, as my body needed a place for rest, relaxation and healing. I needed to
rebuild before my journey to Alaska.
Sheila is incredibly open, honest,
and generous. She lent me a bike to explore the hidden beaches, did my laundry,
shared her VitaMix and many superfoods, and brought me on adventures with her
granddaughter. Her friend and I never shared a spark, but Sheila and I formed a
wonderful friendship. We discussed spirituality to the late hours of the night,
visited the Hindu temple for puja, and ate all sorts of healthy, Hawaiian fresh
food. I stayed with Sheila for a whole week, until the day I left Hawaii.